External Render/Hack off, re-apply etc

[A Quiet Monkfish]

Not sure if anyone here can help but I've got a 3 storey elevation that needs re-rendering. Not sure how much is defective - prob. 20-25% lower down, but is there a m2 rate for hacking off, stabilizing, re-applying [2 coats] ??

I'm inquiring because until the scaffolding goes up and it's checked all over I won't have an estimate [approx.], which I need. Also would it be best done on a day rate [ methinks prob. yes.]

Thanks in anticipation.

[blue matt]

When ever ive been involved in a job with re-rendering, its been hack it all off

[A Quiet Monkfish]

When ever ive been involved in a job with re-rendering, its been hack it all off

It's a big area and going to get a paint job at the end. Just thinking of least -expensive options

[splott parker]

Is the 75/80% that’s ok truly sound? If so why not hack off the defective, blown areas, apply a solution of SBR to the bare brickwork/blockwork, rough it out to the sound work with a scratch coat, SBR the lot and fine down the lot. The problem with hacking off sound rendering is that very often the faces of the common brickwork come off with it, sometimes more than just the faces, weakening the structure. OK, you can stitch in new brickwork to replace the shot old brickwork but it’s only toothed in and never as stable as the original. You could even create a scratch coat on the sound rendering with a criss cross series of disc cuts prior to applying the SBR. My philosophy is why disturb a sound structure, I assume you’re ok to bring the finished fine down forward 10/12 mm re. barge boards & window reveals etc.

[Tuerto]

Not sure if anyone here can help but I've got a 3 storey elevation that needs re-rendering. Not sure how much is defective - prob. 20-25% lower down, but is there a m2 rate for hacking off, stabilizing, re-applying [2 coats] ??

I'm inquiring because until the scaffolding goes up and it's checked all over I won't have an estimate [approx.], which I need. Also would it be best done on a day rate [ methinks prob. yes.]

Thanks in anticipation.

You'd be better off getting two prices, one to hack it all off (worst case scenario) and another just taking out the blown sections (that can only happen on full inspection-when the tubes are in place. Splotty gives some sound advice, if it's doing what it's supposed to do and it's sound then leave it alone. Blown areas can be cut around and hacked off, much less destructive than a mini breaker. I think that you'll struggle to get a meterage rate, most lads will work to a day rate and add a little on due to any nasties going on underneath the rendering. Don't go for a fine down finish if you can help it, it'll crack, nailed on, and it wont be the fault of the spread in most cases. Thermal cracking is a shitter for big areas, you can minimise the risk by adding mesh (stainless steel or fibre) to the backing coat and making sure that the boys use plastering sand, not building sand-SBR is a winner as well, apply render while it's tacky. In short, OPC is shit but cheap, it isn't forgiving or flexible on large panels, it wont compliment the differing weather conditions or allow for the moisture to leave. Best products are natural, Lime based. There's a place called Ty Mawr in Brecon that specialises in Lime render, take a look at their website.

[A Quiet Monkfish]

Is the 75/80% that’s ok truly sound? If so why not hack off the defective, blown areas, apply a solution of SBR to the bare brickwork/blockwork, rough it out to the sound work with a scratch coat, SBR the lot and fine down the lot. The problem with hacking off sound rendering is that very often the faces of the common brickwork come off with it, sometimes more than just the faces, weakening the structure. OK, you can stitch in new brickwork to replace the shot old brickwork but it’s only toothed in and never as stable as the original. You could even create a scratch coat on the sound rendering with a criss cross series of disc cuts prior to applying the SBR. My philosophy is why disturb a sound structure, I assume you’re ok to bring the finished fine down forward 10/12 mm re. barge boards & window reveals etc.

Yes, I've seen the state of some brickwork after they've had to give it a right go ! Been told it's best to take it all off. It's 120yrs old, and I'm not too bothered about the finish - just making sure it's watertight.

[A Quiet Monkfish]

You'd be better off getting two prices, one to hack it all off (worst case scenario) and another just taking out the blown sections (that can only happen on full inspection-when the tubes are in place. Splotty gives some sound advice, if it's doing what it's supposed to do and it's sound then leave it alone. Blown areas can be cut around and hacked off, much less destructive than a mini breaker. I think that you'll struggle to get a meterage rate, most lads will work to a day rate and add a little on due to any nasties going on underneath the rendering. Don't go for a fine down finish if you can help it, it'll crack, nailed on, and it wont be the fault of the spread in most cases. Thermal cracking is a shitter for big areas, you can minimise the risk by adding mesh (stainless steel or fibre) to the backing coat and making sure that the boys use plastering sand, not building sand-SBR is a winner as well, apply render while it's tacky. In short, OPC is shit but cheap, it isn't forgiving or flexible on large panels, it wont compliment the differing weather conditions or allow for the moisture to leave. Best products are natural, Lime based. There's a place called Ty Mawr in Brecon that specialises in Lime render, take a look at their website.

Thanks. Think I'll get comparison quotes as you suggested.