I done my years ago but mine was attached to the house which made it easier.Didn’t need planning permission just building regs.
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I have a detached garage / utility room. I'd like to have it converted into a self contained living area with a bed/living room, a kitchen and a bathroom. I have space to extend the length of the current building
It's single brick at the moment with a rubber skinned style roof (which would need replacing).
How possible is this?
Does it need planning permission because it's change of use. I guess it will need a second layer of brick so it can be insulated correctly, damp proof course maybe, new roof, electrics done properly, it has hot and cold water going to it at the moment. It's near the outside drainage.
So we are not looking to make changes to the actual house, just the garage.
Anyone done this, or do this sort of thing?
I done my years ago but mine was attached to the house which made it easier.Didn’t need planning permission just building regs.
A couple of things to think about.
Plan your electrics and light placement now before you plaster board over.
How are you planning on heating the room - under floor or a radiator?
You may want to raise the floor to the adjoining room level with screeding.
Also if it’s a garage you will want half a wall and a window.
Won’t need a fire door as your going from garage to room and not the other way.
I don’t believe you need any kind of regs or planning permission because you not extending out, up or down.
The only time that you'll need planning is if you're making it larger and in to a seperate dwelling. Sounds to me that you're on the verge of doing that, although not a seperate dwelling.
As for the build, you'll need an internal skin for insulation, although this can be done in timber stud form, which means that you'll lose at least 200mm overall, maybe a little more, although you'll be able to hide all services. Roof, may need changing, although i doubt that you'll be able to change it to an up and over, tiled or slated. DPC can be injected, Electrics will have to be separate to the house with a consumer unit inside the conversion. Waste, if you are cutting into the sewage line, then your water provider, or welsh water, will want to inspect before and after you've connected a line from toilet, shower etc. None of this work is that difficult.
Every single one of us has thought about setting up a car wash/nail bar and housing illegal immigrants but it’s just not worth it
Don’t forget to check finished floor level to u/s of existing joists. You’re going to need insulation on the existing concrete floor, 100mm at least (although some authorities regs are now 150mm, ridiculous depth really), u/f heating snake clipped to the insulation. 50mm sand/cement screed or liquid screed over the lot. That’s at least 150mm higher than your existing slab. I presume you’ve got bare joists at the moment so insulation (100mm at least) should be fitted between them, this would create a ‘cold’ roof. Given that it’s a flat roof and not pitched you can’t get above the joists to insulate over the top so you should really be using an insulated plasterboard on the ceiling to complete uninterrupted ceiling insulation, this would most probably result in your ceiling finish being 50mm below u/s of existing joists. Doing it this way, which is normal practice now, would result in your storey height being 200mm (8 inches)less than it is now.
Just got to add as well that many garage slabs are laid with a gradient which is a bugger, if you don’t want to take it up you have to use the highest point as your sub floor datum which could result in even less head room. Windows are often a pain as well, normal, non kitchen or bathroom, cill heights are 900mm with a 1200mm window given you the conventional 2100 head, u/s of lintel, high, sometimes hard to achieve in an existing garage. Bit of planning before striking a blow is required.
If it was mine I’d be very much inclined to take the existing slab up, reduce the levels inside the room and put a traditional floor in to nigh on the same height as it is now, membrane, insulation the lot. Regs have changed on inside to be 150mm above outside with disabled access to the fore now so that problem’s solved, Mike said existing drainage was nearby so a run of Aco’s into that may help. Would certainly help with storey heights, bit of heartache at first breaking the slab up but I reckon looking at the finished article you’d think it was well worth it.
I Have done many garage conversions ( both years ago in Barry and then down here ) I guess with the Bed, Kitchen, Toilet its going to be a " granny flat " or a " independent son / daughter place " , for this you will 100% need planning permission, the toilet and bed will dictate that
Now, I always ask potential clients at the 1st meeting what they want out of the conversion, plenty just want a Home office, some want a man cave, now this might include a toilet / small kitchen, If they are ok with themselves " bending the planning rules " it makes it alot easier to do, they create a " store room " ( call it what you will ) and convert that, yes that " store room shoudlnt have a kitchen or toilet , but who the hell will know ? ? ? going down the legit planning permission will add a few K onto the price right at the start
By avoiding planning and building regs ( now i am not talking of unsafe work, Electrical work will be done by a sparky and signed of ( if major ) though most garages will have lighting and a double socket on its own MCB, so not massive to extend the electrical ring ) will make the job alot easier and flexible, not to mention cheaper
as for the design,
I will lay down some DPM, on top of that lay either use 100mm or 75mm X 50mm " ( more often than not C16 CLS ) floor joists, with 50mm PIR board ( celotex / kingspan are 2 fairly common brands ) between the joists, then lay chipboard floorboards down
i normally use CLS timber to create a stud wall around the walls, fill the gaps of the stud with 50mm PIR if the garage as block / brick piers, i fit the studwork infront of them and fill the void behind it with 50mm PIR, , thats 100mm in total, if space is a premium, i fit the stud work between the piers and just use the 50mm between the CLS stud work, now i know that wouldnt be good enough for building control
staple a vapour barrier to the stud work and then plasterboard
As for the flat roof, you will be able to get plenty of PIR between the roof joists then plaster board, of course if the ceiling is plasterboarded, you will need to rip it down, once again, a vapour barrier and plasterboard
Wall mounted oil filled rads are great for keeping the room warm, low cost to run, looks nice, i have fitted underfloor heating ( warmup is a fairly decent brand ) in the past aswell, but thats a personal choice, maybe use both
I honestly find 50mm PIR warm enough, of course you can go 75 / 80mm ( i have 80mm in the ceiling of my new shed ) I am happy to go with 50mm for the floor and walls, then 80 - 100 for the roof
the big question is how much bending of the rules are you happy with, keep in mind if you do come to sell the house, you will only be able to sell it as a house with a " garage / shed / store room " and most likely have to pay for a £150 Indemnity insurance to cover the building
Ignoring the obvious (and acknowledged) BC and PP issues here, I can't quite get my head around this. What are these 75x50 CLS "joists" bearing on? Surely they cannot be spanning anything so presumably these are actually resting on an existing slab? If so - I can see the logic of the DPM but why bother with the joists at all? Why not just float the P5 on the PIR? And to be honest at 50mm for floor insulation- why bother at all? The heat saving through the floor will be negligible, but surely most of the buildings you are doing this to are limited to 2.5m height and so even a 63mm loss of headroom is sub-optimal?
It will probably come under permitted development, as long as you are not changing 25m squared of current development
You will still need plans drawn up by an Architect and submitted to the local council so everything is above board
Know of people who lay the foundations for waste but then cover it up, leave it as is for a few years until they think planning won’t be interested, then put in the wc etc....adding a kitchen is simple enough....it’s a risk though, only takes one neighbour to report someone is living in it and it’s all over.